La Samaritaine is not just a department store — it is a monument to the art of living à la française. Founded in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jaÿ, this legendary Parisian institution has been a symbol of elegance, commerce, and architectural ambition for over 150 years. After a spectacular €750 million restoration by LVMH, Samaritaine reopened its doors in 2021, revealing one of the most breathtaking retail spaces in the world — a seamless fusion of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and contemporary design that stretches along the Seine in the heart of Paris.
Today, La Samaritaine is much more than a place to shop. It is a luxury destination — a multi-level palace of fashion, beauty, gastronomy, and art, crowned by a rooftop terrace with what many consider to be the finest view in Paris. Whether you are a serious shopper, an architecture enthusiast, a food lover, or simply someone who appreciates beautiful spaces, Samaritaine deserves a prominent place on your Paris itinerary. For more details, check out our Paris food guide.
A Brief History: From Petit Bazaar to Luxury Palace
The story of La Samaritaine begins in 1870, when Ernest Cognacq, a former draper’s apprentice, opened a small shop on the Rue de la Monnaie, just steps from the Pont Neuf. He named it after a pump station on the Seine that featured a decorative sculpture of the Samaritan woman from the Gospel of John. The business grew rapidly, expanding into neighbouring buildings and eventually encompassing an entire city block. By the early 20th century, Samaritaine was the largest department store in France, a temple of commerce where Parisians from every social class came to shop, eat, and socialise.
The store’s architecture evolved alongside its commercial success. The original buildings were replaced in the early 1900s by a stunning ensemble designed by architect Frantz Jourdain, who created a masterpiece of Art Nouveau with elaborate ironwork, ceramics, and glass. A later expansion by Henri Sauvage added an Art Deco wing with geometric facades and bold decorative elements. Together, these buildings form one of the most architecturally significant retail spaces in Europe.
By the early 2000s, Samaritaine had fallen into decline, and the store closed in 2005 amid safety concerns about its aging structure. The building sat empty for 16 years while LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault oversaw one of the most ambitious restoration projects in recent Parisian history. The result, unveiled in June 2021, is nothing short of extraordinary.
The Architecture: A Masterpiece Restored
Walking into La Samaritaine today is an experience that borders on the overwhelming. The main entrance on the Rue de Rivoli leads into the Grand Hall (Grande Halle), a nine-storey atrium flooded with natural light from a spectacular glass-and-steel roof. The original Art Nouveau ironwork has been meticulously restored, with flowing organic forms, floral motifs, and the signature peacock feather patterns that Frantz Jourdain designed in 1905. The ceramic tiles, mosaics, and painted decorations have all been returned to their original glory, creating a space that feels simultaneously historic and vibrantly modern.
The Art Deco wing, accessible from the Quai du Louvre along the Seine, offers a dramatic contrast — geometric lines, bold colours, and the angular elegance that defined Parisian design in the 1920s and 1930s. The interplay between the two architectural styles is one of Samaritaine’s most fascinating features, a physical representation of Paris’s ability to honour its past while embracing the future.
Every detail has been considered in the restoration. The original monumental staircase, with its wrought-iron balustrades and marble steps, has been preserved. The historic elevators, some of the oldest in Paris, still function alongside modern additions. The painted ceilings, some depicting mythological scenes and others advertising the store’s merchandise in early 20th-century style, have been cleaned and restored by specialist conservators. It is, in essence, a living museum of French decorative arts.
Shopping: The Best of French and International Luxury
Samaritaine’s retail offering is organised across multiple levels, each dedicated to a different universe of luxury. The store brings together over 600 brands across fashion, beauty, lifestyle, and home — from LVMH stablemates like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Fendi, and Celine to independent designers and exclusive Paris experiences collaborations that you will not find anywhere else in Paris.
Women’s Fashion (Levels 1–3): The heart of Samaritaine’s luxury offering. Level 1 features the biggest brands and seasonal collections. Level 2 focuses on contemporary designers and exclusive capsule collections. Level 3 is dedicated to accessories, jewellery, and watches, with dedicated boutique spaces for brands like Tiffany, Chaumet, and Fred.
Beauty (Level 0): The beauty hall is one of the most spectacular in Paris, featuring every major French luxury beauty brand alongside niche perfumeries and independent skincare labels. The Sephora at Samaritaine is the brand’s largest and most luxurious location in France, and the Chanel Beauty boutique offers exclusive treatments and consultations.
Men’s Fashion (Level 4): A dedicated menswear floor with a carefully curated selection of luxury brands, from classic houses to contemporary labels. The atmosphere is more intimate and club-like than the women’s floors, with personal shopping services available.
Home and Lifestyle (Levels 5–6): Samaritaine has always been known for its homeware, and the restored store continues this tradition with a magnificent selection of tableware, linens, furniture, and decorative objects. This is the place to buy the kind of beautiful, everyday luxury items that French homes are known for — Le Creuset cookware, Hermès tableware, Diptyque candles, and artisanal glassware from French artisans.
The Rooftop Terrace: The Best View in Paris
If there is one single reason to visit Samaritaine — even if you have no intention of shopping — it is the rooftop terrace. Located on the 9th floor, the terrace offers a panoramic 360-degree view of Paris that is, by common consensus, one of the finest in the city. To the east, you see the dome of the Institut de France and the spires of Notre-Dame. To the west, the Eiffel Tower rises above the rooftops of the 7th arrondissement. To the north, the Sacré-Cœur gleams white on the summit of Montmartre. And directly below, the Seine flows past the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris, with the Louvre stretching away to the east.
The terrace is free to access and is open during store hours (10 AM–8 PM, until 10 PM on Thursdays). There is a rooftop bar and restaurant, Perchoir Marais, operated by the same team behind the popular Perchoir chain of rooftop bars. The cocktails are excellent, the small plates are delicious, and the atmosphere — especially at sunset — is pure magic. Book a table in advance if you want a specific spot, or simply arrive and find a place at the railing to watch the city turn golden as the sun dips below the horizon.
Dining at Samaritaine
Samaritaine’s food offering has been designed as a culinary destination in its own right, not merely an afterthought for tired shoppers. The store houses several restaurants and best cafés in Pariss, each with a distinct personality:
Café Marais (Level 0): A bright, casual café on the ground floor that serves excellent coffee, pastries, and light meals throughout the day. It is the perfect spot for a mid-shopping break, with comfortable seating and a view of the bustling Rue de Rivoli.
Perchoir Marais (Rooftop): The rooftop bar and restaurant, serving craft cocktails, natural wines, and seasonal small plates. The menu changes regularly and features fresh, contemporary French cuisine with international influences. The terrace is the main draw, but the indoor dining room is also beautifully designed, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the view.
Girafe (Level 7): A stunning restaurant specialising in seafood and Mediterranean cuisine, with one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Paris — high ceilings, Art Deco details, and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Seine. The oysters are exceptional, the fish is fresh, and the champagne list is extensive. Dinner here feels like a special occasion, even if it is a Tuesday.
La Boutique (Ground Floor): Samaritaine’s gourmet food hall, where you can buy artisanal products from across France — cheese, charcuterie, chocolate, jam, honey, wine, and more. It is an excellent place to assemble a gourmet picnic to eat on the rooftop terrace or along the nearby Seine.
Cheval Blanc Paris: The Hotel Within Samaritaine
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Samaritaine restoration is the inclusion of Cheval Blanc Paris, a 72-room best luxury hotels in Paris operated by LVMH’s hotel group. Located within the Art Deco wing of the building, Cheval Blanc Paris is one of the most exclusive hotels in the city, with rooms starting at approximately €1,500 per night. The hotel features a spa by the Guerlain Institute, an indoor swimming pool beneath a stunning glass ceiling, and several private dining and event spaces. Even if you are not staying at the hotel, you can visit the Cheval Blanc Café on the ground floor for a coffee or a light meal in an exquisitely designed space.
Practical Information for Visiting
Address: 19 Rue de la Monnaie, 75001 Paris (main entrance on Rue de Rivoli, with a second entrance on the Quai du Louvre alongside the Seine).
Opening Hours: Monday–Saturday, 10 AM–8 PM. Thursday late-night shopping until 10 PM. Sunday, 11 AM–7 PM. The rooftop terrace is open during store hours. Closed on 1 January and 25 December.
Getting There: Take Metro Line 7 to Pont Neuf or Line 1 to Châtelet. The store is also accessible by RER A, B, and D to Châtelet–Les Halles.
Tips: Visit on a weekday morning for the most peaceful shopping experience. The rooftop terrace is least crowded before noon and after 6 PM. If you want to dine at Girafe, book at least two weeks in advance. Personal shopping services are available in multiple languages — ask at the concierge desk on the ground floor. And do not forget to look up — the ceilings and glass roof are as beautiful as anything on the shelves.
La Samaritaine is more than a department store. It is a love letter to Paris, to luxury, and to the art of living beautifully. Whether you spend an hour or an entire afternoon here, it is an experience that captures everything that makes Paris the most desirable city in the world.
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